Nathula Pass - An Exciting journey to Chinese border

Highlights of Nathu La Pass

• It's height is 4,310 m (14,140 ft.) and is 54 Km from Gangtok & travel time around 2.5 hours from Gangtok
• Nathu La is one of the three open trading border posts between China and India
• Nathu La is located on the 563 km (350 mi) Old Silk Route, an offshoot of the historic Silk Road. The Old Silk Route connects Lhasa in Tibet to the plains of Bengal to the south
• In 1975, Sikkim acceded to India and Nathu La became part of Indian territory.
• Since July 2006, trading is open Mondays through Thursdays thru this pass
• In winter the pass is blocked by Snow.

What's beyond Nathu La Pass

On the right side there is Bhutan's border while the remaining portion is that of Tibet(China). I guess it is mostly it is Chinese army's barracks adjoining Nathula Pass but from nearby we can find plenty of Tibetese settlements.

There nearest Tibetan city I could find on Google maps is Yadong, Xigaze, Tibet, China. Click here to go to the Google Maps of this town. Lhasa, the capital of Tibet is around 430 Km.

In Google maps you can see that Lhasa is now heavily developed by China.

Google Maps Lhasa Photo

Click here to see this online.

Planning Nathu La

Foreigners are not allowed to Nathu La while Indian residents need permit before they can visit Nathu La on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. On the Indian side, only citizens of India can visit the pass after obtaining permits one day in advance in Gangtok.

Best time to visit Nathu La

Rainy season could be the worst while winter snow could choke your visit to Nathu La so the best season should be from Mar to June, just before rains start

Permit to visit Nathu La

There are two different permits are needed. The one is to visit Nathu La and your permit will be checked just before entering Nathula. This permit has vehicle number and the name of passengers too. To apply it just send you scanned government ID card to the travel operator( you can also use paid services, see bottom) and around Rs. 200 fees per person. That's all and this permit can be applied only on fixed days in the Army area.

The second permit is from the Sikkim government at Gangtok's border and just before you start journey. For this permit you'll need to give your color photos which you can do after reaching Gangtok.

Even if you don't have permits you can visit Nathu La by paying little bribe to Sikkim Police at the checkpoint and at the Army checkpoint just before Nathu La. Just talk to the local taxi driver and he will do the rest. Remember there is only one army officer who casually check before you enter the Nathu La.

When to start from Gangtok

Just at the border of Gangtok at Sikkim government checkpoint it is mentioned that tourists are not allowed after 11 am in summer and after 10 am in winters. Secondly you should start as early as possible from Gangtok as the Nathu La Pass is closed by Army at 1 pm (not sharp) and Baba Mandir closes at 1.30 pm.

Secondly you want to return before the sun sets as the route is very accident prone.

In the worst case even if you reach late at Nathu La Pass, your local driver(not from outside) can arrange your visit to Nathu La for a bribe( roughly Rs. 200 per person).

In worst case plan direct visit to Nathula first without spending time anywhere else. While returning spend time as per your wish.

My Journey to Nathu La Pass

Hazard prone road

The Gangtok side of Himalayas is made of very loose soil and brittle stones due to which is very prone to land slides and more so especially in the rainy season.

My Journey

Stop Overs:

• First a market to take tea and buy handicrafts
• Tsomgo Lake
• Manju Lake(no need to stop)
• Baba Mandir

Unfortunately I went during rainy season of June end and it was raining all the day along the route. The route is indeed dangerous one. At around 50% places, only rough surface is there while at other good road developed by BRO(Border Roads Organization) is there.

The road quality is poor mostly because of landslides at every now and them. Surprisingly the road to Nathu La is called Jawahar Lal Nehru Road.

I could see many human settlements before Nathula Pass but I guess they are there as they earn either through tourists like me or thru Army( for example contract labourers etc). Most of settlements are the Indian Army's. Those are lined up till you reach Nathu La.

Secondly there are places you'll find where you'll see notices that you're not allowed to stop and do photography. My local driver told me that in these places Indian Army keeps arms and ammunitions.

You'll find a settlement named Kyangnosla at 10400 feet height.

Nathu La

You can see both Chinese and Indian buildings here as well as the place where Indian and Chinese captains have meetings.

You can take photographs freely. You can have photographs with Indian soldiers. If you're very lucky then you meet Chinese ones too. But those are shy and avoid coming out to Indian public.

Indeed there is one good tea center run by the Army soldiers with tasty tea and snacks being served at reasonable rates.

Tsomgo Lake

Note: Please don't walk on the frozen lake and don't pee near it as it is considered a holy one.

You can get yourself photographed in Tibetan dress and as well sitting on the Yak. We had to do bit of bargaining.

The story of the lake can be read from this photo at a notice board at the Lake:

(Click to Zoom it)

Sherbathang Market

I guess it is near the Manju lake and every week twice/thrice Chinese come thru Nathu La to sell goods to Indians.

Baba Mandir

It is constructed in the memory of Major "Baba" Harbhajan Singh (August 3, 1941 – September 11, 1967). He is believed to be a saint and who has been mysteriously sighted by Indian and Chinese soldiers at night. Soldiers believe that he protects them from the inhospitable high altitude terrain of Eastern Himalayas.

Also it closes at 1.30 pm. So make sure you reach on time.

Please read here for full story at Wikipedia.

Taxi Price

You'd need vehicle with larger tyres as you can't travel using cars etc. Through travel agents during our time it was costing around Rs. 5500 - 6000. Hiring a local taxi directly will cost you at most Rs. 4500.

Shared Taxis

Yes shared taxis are available but remember they will first full the vehicle and then they use a common trick and delay you and reach Nathu La after 2 pm. Since at this time the Pass is closed by Indian Army, the driver will ask for some bribe from you(Rs. 200 - 400) per person so that you can visit the Pass at this off time by paying bribe to Army personnel.

Help in Permit or Taxis

If you want to apply for Nathu La permit from your city or need taxi/hotel at cheap rate then I suggest you call this nice gentleman, be sure you'll be helped honestly: Mr. Karma 09593782324.

If you find any problem with this person, let me know so that I can remove this.